Showing posts with label Orientalism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Orientalism. Show all posts

Sunday, October 04, 2015

Kufiya on Gotham, Season 1, Episode 4: The guy who grabs Fish Mooney


Fish Mooney is trying to flee Gotham by boat. The boat is attacked by mercenaries, and this guy enters her cabin to get her. In the next episode, she wakes up in what turns out to be a prison run by a doctor who is harvesting organs, as well as limbs, and not just selling them but conducting his own terrifying and sadistic experiments on the inmates. Lots of truly horrific things happen in Gotham, but the Dollmaker (Dr. Dulmacher) might rank as the worst, his projects evoking the most awful practices of the Nazi concentration camps. Naturally, I guess, by a kind of unconscious Orientalist logic, the mercenary sent to grab Mooney would be in a kufiya. It's the only one I've spotted, after watching the entire first season of Gotham and the first two episodes of the second. But I'll keep looking!

Monday, September 07, 2015

Paul Poiret and his wife Denise at "Persian Fête" party

(I've posted about this phenomenon previously -- it was very trendy for the adventurous middle and upper classes in the US and Europe to dress up in Middle Eastern fashion. Check out this post and this one. I'm very pleased to find this photo of the Poirets, courtesy Reorient's Instagram feed. You should follow it too.)

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Adam Shatz, Edward Said, and kufiyas

Adam Shatz, contributing editor at the London Review of Books, recently published an excellent essay ("Writers or Missionaries?") in The Nation that, among other things, took on the critique of Orientalism that Edward Said launched in the late '70s, and that continues in full force in academic studies of the Middle East. I first met Edward Said in 1977 and met up with him several times since then, in Austin, Ithaca, Egypt...I've read and absorbed and taught much of his work and and used it extensively in my own. And yet...I find what Shatz has to say about where it has evolved, into a kind of orthodoxy, to be quite salutary and bracing, and needed. (And I'll be teaching parts of Said's Covering Islam in class this week.)

And yes, it mentions the kufiya, in the context of Palestine solidarity.

"Writing about the region, never an easy undertaking, is likely to become still more difficult. I am not sure whether the most influential current of oppositional thinking about the Middle East is equipped to deal with the changes the region is undergoing. I am referring to the critique of Orientalism that Edward Said initiated. This style of thinking was formative for me, but I fear that it has congealed into an orthodoxy; and, as George Orwell wrote, “orthodoxy, of whatever colour, seems to demand a lifeless, imitative style.” That we are now able to have a more open conversation about Palestine, that students are mobilizing against the occupation, is welcome; but Palestine is not the Middle East, and it seems peculiar, if not myopic, to talk about Palestine as if it were insulated from the rest of the region. And while it is understandable that young American students are particularly concerned about their government’s policies in the region, these policies do not wholly determine its shape and direction. America’s power in the Middle East has weakened, though not in favor of forces that most of us would consider progressive. Today, we are witnessing a tacit alliance of Israel, the military regime in Egypt and the Gulf states—particularly Saudi Arabia—against Iran, with which the United States, in conflict with its own regional allies, is seeking rapprochement. The latest Israeli offensive in Gaza is a measure of how marginal Palestine has become to the agenda of Arab states...

Today, it seems to me, Palestinians are for the radical Western left what Algerians were for Third World–ists in Vidal-Naquet’s day: natural-born resisters, fighting not only Israel but its imperial patrons, as much on our behalf as theirs. That is the role assigned to them in the revolutionary imagination. Like the kaffiyeh worn by anti-globalization protesters, this Palestine is little more than a metaphor. Palestine is still “the question” because it holds up a mirror to us. “Too many people want to save Palestine,” one activist said to me. But it could just as well be said that too many people want to be saved by Palestine...

Enormously liberating when it was developed, the critique of Orientalism has often resulted in a set of taboos and restrictions that inhibit critical thinking. They pre-emptively tell us to stop noticing things that are right under our noses, particularly the profound cleavages in Middle Eastern societies—struggles over class and sect, the place of religion in politics, the relationship between men and women; struggles that are only partly related to their confrontation with the West and with Israel. Indeed, it is sometimes only in those moments of confrontation that these very divided societies achieve a fleeting sense of unity. The theoretical intricacy of academic anti-Orientalism, its hermetic and sophisticated language, sometimes conceals an attempt to wish away the region’s dizzying complexity in favor of the old, comforting logic of anticolonial struggle. Anti-Orientalism will continue to provide a set of critical tools and a moral compass, so long as it is understood as a point of departure, not a destination. Like all old maps, it has begun to yellow. It no longer quite describes the region, the up-ender of all expectations, the destroyer of all missionary dreams.

Monday, November 07, 2011

Miscellaneous Orientalia: The Heads, "Relaxing With..."

The Heads are a "stoner band" from Bristol, active during the 1990s. This is the cover of their 1995 album, Relaxing With...




Redolent with that sixties, hippy, Orientalist fantasy thing. Need I say more? (But I do like the music on this album.)

Saturday, June 25, 2011

The Turban Makes a Glorious Comeback (last fall!)

Kirsten Luce for The New York Times

I clipped this article from the New York Times last fall, but it got misplaced in some pile or other, and I've just recovered it. I think it's still of interest.

It focuses on the claim of June Ambrose (pictured above) who, it says, wore a turban every day during New York Fashion Week. And it traces the current trend to a Prada show in 2006, which wasn't picked up, but then began to catch on by 2009. Kate Moss wore one at the Met gala in May 2009. And it started showing up on the street, on young women.

The new fashion connected them to "sophistication linked with Hollywood glamour of the 1920s and ’30s, when women like Garbo, Gloria Swanson and Joan Crawford wore them. “From way back, turbans signified a woman who was very educated and worldly,” said Caroline Rennolds Milbank, the fashion historian."

The article goes on to say that, 'Because turbans have historically been associated with Arab dress, it is tempting to connect them with the conflict in the Middle East. “They make a strong political statement, like wearing harem pants,” Ms. [June] Ambrose said. “We take an element of other cultures and internalize it”'

For his part, the curator of the Costume Institute at the Met, Harold Koda, 'isn’t convinced that they have anything to do with politics: “It’s not a part of a Kumbaya fashion movement. I think it’s more of Poiret’s view of Orientalism than women watching the news and referencing what’s going on in Afghanistan. It’s an exoticism, a sense of the other that is visually compelling.”'

Fashion historian Caroline Rennolds Milbank meanwhile 'noted that in the past, Western culture looked at the Middle East for its exotic form of dress, which was seen as sexually liberating. “If you look back at the portrayal of women in films like ‘1,001 Nights,’ ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ or even the television show ‘I Dream of Jeannie,’ the West depicted those women very sexually with sheer fabrics and an exposed midriff,” she said. “Going back to the turban is a return to the allure and sexiness of a foreign culture.”'

My opinion is not that it's a question of either/or. Probably the trend has something to do with Middle East politics--in some displaced fashion. And no doubt it's also rooted in the history of popular Orientalism in the US. Check out the slideshow that goes along with the article for more turbans. I particularly liked the photo of Nina Simone wearing one.

(credit: Associated Press)

I've posted a few times on turbans, as well as related Orientalist fashions. Re Maria Montez and Lana Turner, here. Rudy Ray Moore and more here. Beyoncé here. Kim Wilson. Chuck Willis. The Fabulous Ottomans and Sam the Sham. Prince and Prada. Ongoing obsession.

Chic of Araby


Italian designer Walter Albini created this in 1976 (photo from the New York Times, Oct. 12, 2010). Read more about him here. You'd think that, today, the more germane term would be hijab chic.

The phrase, Chic of Araby, isn't original. In fact, the Times used it for a men's fashion spread in Spring 2010. Below is a representative photo. Very Lawrence of Arabia retro. More here. (Maybe the Times got the name from the John Abercrombie 2009 track.)

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Cleo Cola: Popular Orientalism

Cleo Cola by tsweden
Cleo Cola, a photo by tsweden on Flickr.



I found this item at the Walmart Visitors Center (the Walmart museum) in Bentonville. It's part of a display of soft drinks that used to be sold in Bentonville over the last several decades. Cleo Cola, the "Queen of sparkling drinks," bottled in St. Louis, was introduced in 1935 by the Whistle Company.



Note the resemblance of the outfit worn by Cleo to the popular Orientalism developed by the likes of Maude Allen and other Salomé dancers. I posted about this briefly here.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Popular Orientalism: Tuli Kupferberg in "Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec God?"


Here's another example of "popular" Orientalism, put to avant-garde and subversive purposes. It's not quite as subversive and avant-garde as Jack Smith's work, but it is still of interest.

I learned of this 1972 film, directed by Michael Hersh and Jack Christie, from a Facebook post by the Moorish Orthodox Church of America. It's called Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec God?, and all I really know about it is from this opening segment, featuring Tuli Kupferberg (of The Fugs) as God. God who speaks English with a strong Eastern European Jewish accent. God who smokes hash from the houka.


God who lives in Hashish Seventh Heaven, surrounded by a harem of barebreasted hippy bellydancers. Who loves Al Jolsen's "Swanee." Who sings The Trashmen's surf-punk avant-le-lettre "Surfing Bird."



Kupferberg is hilarious in this clip. I'm ambivalent about the claymation stereotypical-black figure in tarbush who introduces the film (see above). The barebreasted 'houris' of the harem are typical of the sixties counter-cultural sexual revolution, which seemed in large part to be about hippy women taking off their bras and tops so that hippy men could ogle them. But I've only seen this clip, so there may be more too all this. A DVD should be out later this year. The film has played in New York recently in tributes to Kupferberg, who passed away in July 2010. J. Hoberman wrote an interesting if short review of the film in The Village Voice, calling it "strenuously druggy, anarchic, and blasphemous," and writing that Kupferberg's God is "an unkempt, hairy schmoozer, consorting with his female subjects in a vaguely Baghdadian crash pad".

I continue to be interested in how significant a role Orientalist images of the Arab world and the Middle East played in avant-garde, counter-cultural, and hippy pop cultural manifestations of "the sixties." Besides several posts in hawblawg on Jack Smith, I've also written posts on the film Performance (here and here) and a few asides. More to come. I don't want to claim that such deployments of "Orientalism" are necessarily progressive, but I am against a certain kind of dogmatic and all-too-common deployment of Said's critique of Orientalism, that describes any Western consumption of "The Orient" as "flexible positional superiority," and therefore, exploitative.

P.S. If you don't know The Fugs, please check out their brilliantly hilarious zen nihilist song, "Nothing." "Social anthropology, uckalcucka, nothing."

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Jack Smith's Orientalism (warning: photos of a sexual nature)

I've recently been indulging of late in some additional Jack Smith investigations. I've recently watched the documentary, Jack Smith and the Destruction of Atlantis, Smith's film Normal Love (1963, available for viewing at ubuweb), and Ali Baba and the 40 Thieves (1944), starring Maria Montez, who was one of Smith's main inspirations. I also recently read two very informative articles about Smith: Dominic Johnson, "The Wound Kept Open: Jack Smith, Queer Performance and Cultural Failure" (Women and Performance 17[1], 2007) and Michael Moon, "Flaming Closets" (October vol. 51, Winter 1989).

I got interested in Jack Smith after I had the good fortune to see his most well-known film, Flaming Creatures (1963) in the early nineties in Seattle. At the time was quite a rarity. Now it's available for viewing at ubuweb, and I own a bootleg copy that I purchased on ebay. What struck me when I watched the documentary recently was how many signs of what I want to call Smith's Orientalism it showed--although the film, alas, did not give these trappings of Orientalism the kind of detailed discussion that they deserve. The film is full of snippets of the words of Smith, some of them relevant to this point, and show how much he had internalized "Orientalist" influences in the ways in which he represented the world. At one point he declares, "Me, I'm Ali Baba. The man without his dreams withers and grows old." At another Smith is asking for volunteers to help out on one of the performance pieces he used to stage for free at his apartment in New York City during the seventies. He says, "I need an exotic volunteer of the desert of cheerfulness." Responding to objections about the fact that audience typically had to wait for hours for the show to go on at his apartment, he states, "I don't want the scum of Baghdad" to be there for the performance. He thought audiences needed to work in order to be deserving of art. They weren't automatically entitled to it.

The documentary also offers abundant visual evidence. Smith is shown in kufiya several times throughout the film. Often the provenance of the shots is not identified. It appears that the shots of Smith in kufiya are from his appearance in films by other experimental filmmakers. He appeared, for instance, in a number of Warhol films, but I don't know whether any of the images below are from a Warhol vehicle.

The first three stills are all from the same film, showing Smith in black-and-white checked kufiya. I don't know what the original source is.


The next two are stills from underground filmmakers Scott B and Beth B's 1980 film, The Trap Door.


This is a fairly late appearance of Jack Smith, probably after he had contracted HIV. (He died in 1989.)


Smith also performed as a "harem girl," but I noticed no shots of him in that role in the documentary. Moon (1989: 41-42) has this to say about Smith in both roles: Smith seems to have performed the roles of the "sheik" or the (presumably male) "vampire" at least as frequently as he did those of the "vamp" or "harem girl" in '60s films. He played all these roles, and directed others to play them, in ways that short-circuit their relations to the heterosexualized representational regimes from which they derive. What is compelling about these figures in Smith's films is not the sheik's enactment of virility or the harem girl's of femininity; nor is it simply the reversal of these roles, as it might be if Smith's were simply another version of traditional transvestite comedy. To underestimate or dismiss the real erotic appeal Smith's "comedies" have had for many gay viewers is to ignore the primary source of their power: his films are incitements to his audience not only to play fast and loose with gender roles but also to push harder against prevailing constraints on sexuality.

As should be obvious, when Smith put on the kufiya, he was not asserting any kind of political identification with Palestinians (the resistance movement and its kufiya symbol did not appear til 1969-70). Rather, the point of reference is the "sheik" movies starring Rudolph Valentino, and their offspring, and in particular, the "Orientalist" films of Maria Montez. And the point, according to Moon, is gender-bending. (I take his word for it, as it is not apparent from the scenes of Smith in kufiya that we see in the documentary that this was about transgressing conventions of gender and sexuality.)

It's perhaps a minor point, but I don't believe that the "sheik" in Hollywood cinema fits so neatly into "heterosexualized representational regimes" as a symbol of virility. Valentino's "virility" is not, I think, so clear-cut. His masculinity was frequently questioned in the media and public discourse during his career, and his sleekness, pomaded hair, dandyish clothing and so on were all pointed to as examples of his effeminacy. Steve Caton has discussed at length the gender ambiguity of T.E. Lawrence, as portrayed by Peter O'Toole in Lawrence of Arabia (1962)--whose release and widespread popularity preceded the appearance of Smith's Flaming Creatures and Normal Love by just a year. And as we will see below, the Maria Montez vehicle, Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves, also has its moments of gender ambiguity. The "sheik," therefore, may in fact be an image that is already somewhat ambiguous and therefore readily available for further deconstruction.

We also see evidence of Jack Smith's Orientalism in some of the photos and movie stills shown in the documentary. I learned from the film that prior to getting into film making Smith was an accomplished photographer. In particular he was a pioneer in the field of color photography, playing an important role in helping turn it into an "art" form (previously color photos had mainly been considered tainted by commercialism and therefore degraded.) But Smith also worked in black-and-white, what was considered the "art" form of photography. He used to get people into his photo studio, where he stored all kinds of costumes, and then get them to dress up. It seems that the status of Smith's estate is still not resolved, and so it is difficult to find many examples of Smith's photography. Here is an interview with filmmaker Mary Jordan, which shows a few examples of Jack's stunning photography and provides some background about the film and the fact that Jordan had limited access to the Jack Smith archive.

Here's one of the photos shown in the film, which is from the only book of Jack Smith's photography to appear in print, The Beautiful Book. (It is, alas, out of print.) If you just look at the top half of the photo, with its unveiled women whose breasts are visible through the gauzy, veil material, you would think that it superficially resembles the kind of Orientalist French colonial photography that Malek Alloula so brilliantly analyzes in The Colonial Harem. But then you notice the male lying supinely on the floor below the women, his flaccid penis exposed, his eyebrows and eyelids made up in a manner similar to the women's. This sexual economy is therefore radically other the stereotypical Orientalist/colonial imagery. Not only is it different, it puts that stereotypical Orientalist imagery in the service of an imaginary that is radically and subversively queer, in a manner that remains (I would maintain) still explosive today.

I think this still from the documentary is also one of Smith's photos (and not from a film), an occasion where his subject was invited to dress up in costume (his studio seems to have been full of "Orientalist fancy" props). It resembles more closely than the previous photo the sort of photos we find in the Alloula book. But it is put to different purposes. This woman is not, I would argue, the object of a peeping tom, of the colonial gaze. She is not passively submitting to the gaze, and she seems to be in possession of her own sexuality.

This still may be from one of Smith's films. The woman at right may be a man in drag. It shows the importance of decadence and vivid color in Smith's imagery.

Here is a still of a belly dancer (I'm not sure whether this was from a film, or a photograph--I took photos from the film, and then sent the DVD back to Netflix, so I'm sometimes vague on details).

If you watch Smith's film Normal Love, however, you won't see anyone dressed up in any costume that is overtly Orientalist. But the feel of the film is very much in the vein of Smith's Orientalist fantasy, with its lavish and extravagant color (although one suspects that the version available on ubuweb is somewhat faded from the versions that Smith might have screened), its frolicking and dancing (all of it out-of-doors), its decadence, indolence and desultoriness, its casual and polymorphous, collective and frequently undecipherable sexuality. Smith used the term "moldy" and "swampy" to describe the sorts of scenes we see in Normal Love, what Moon views as the sort of "unconscious processes that have, over the past couple of decades, fueled innumerable small- and large-scale eruptions of queer rebellion against the institutions of the closet" (1989: 53-54; see also Johnson 2007: 8).

(I love the deadpan nature of the film title--this is so far from anything that one would conventionally term either/or normal/+love.)

The soundtrack for Normal Love, however, affirm's the films Orientalist bases. When Jack Smith presented his films, as far as I understand, he would play records on a turntable as the movie screened. (After Flaming Creatures, Smith produced no finished movies, in order that they could not be seized by the authorities, turned into product, or put in the service of a political agenda--all of which happened in the case of Flaming Creatures.) So the soundtrack is not exactly in "synch" with the action onscreen--or rather, it is situated in a kind of wondrous out-of-synchness. For example, when we first see the fearful Mongo figure in Normal Love, stalking one of the women, we hear music that is jumpy and scary. Then, we hear the lush and idyllic sounds of Rimsky-Korsakov's famous Scheherazade, and we next see Mongo pushing the woman on a swing, dressed all in pink. Selections from Scheherazade are heard throughout film, as well as three songs by Mohammed El-Bakkar and his Oriental Ensemble. I've been able to identify only one of the songs: "Ya Habibi," from the album Sultan of Baghdad (originally released in 1958). You can listen to a snippet by going here. (Of course you can hear the entire song if you watch the film -- which you must do. "Ya Habibi" starts roughly at minute 28.)


Muhammad El-Bakkar is somewhat notorious, in retrospect, for his quite risqué album covers. In particular, this one (released in 1958, on Audio Fidelity).

And this one, released in 1960, shortly after El-Bakkar's death, on Audio Fidelity.

It's rather remarkable that El-Bakkar's releases were rather mainstream recordings, marketed to the middle class. It appears that in the 1950s you could get away with showing lots of breast if, and only if, the subject were "exotic." (Check out this gallery of belly dance LP covers.) It's rather like the National Geographic and its nudes back in the day. Note that the Arab (closer to white) dancers have their nipples covered, whereas the more "primitive" black African does not. Moreover, the scene on the cover of the Music of the African Arab LP appears to be that of an African slave girl, up for auction.

The aim of these salacious covers was to sell the albums. And sell they did. According to Saki Knafo, Bakkar's first release, Port Said (which also had a salacious cover, featuring Turkish belly dancer Nejla Ates), may have sold a million copies. The liner notes on the albums, Knafo notes, were also pure Orientalist fantasy, with little reliable information about the music or the culture that produced them. But the music in fact was basically authentic, contemporary popular Arabic music, with the percussion perhaps a bit pumped up in volume. Belly dance music was quite popular at the time in the US, an outgrowth of the earlier interest in "exotica," as well as in Cuban music (cha cha cha, mambo), calypso, and so on. There were lots of clubs in the urban US featuring belly dancers and Middle Eastern music, and these were quite hip places for would-be sophisticated middle class patrons. (You can find lots of examples of El-Bakkar's music to listen to on youtube.)

El-Bakkar was Lebanese, and had worked as an actor and singer in the Egyptian film industry. He arrived in New York City in 1952, and passed away, at the age of 47 and at the height of his career in the US, in 1959. Again, the look of the album covers of his LP's obscures the fact that the music on the vinyl was in fact fairly conventional Arabic music--although somewhat edgy and exotic in the US context. And, on the basis of this photo of El-Bakkar's ensemble (he is front and center, holding an 'ud), his shows were not particularly "wild" either--although they probably featured a belly dancer.


I want to the point that the music Jack Smith used on Normal Love was "real" (more or less) Arabic music. Arabic music, moreover, that would have been familiar, and not entirely foreign, to much of his audience. It's no doubt rather hard to believe that white middle class Americans might have been "familiar" with Arabic music in the late 1950s and early 1960s, but I would argue that we have a distorted view of this period. (There is an excellent accounting of the popularity of belly dance music in Incredibly Strange Music, I think it's volume 1, by V. Vale.)

An essential source of Jack Smith's Orientalism is Maria Montez. Montez was born in the Dominican Republic, and achieved fame in Hollywood in the 1940s when she starred a series of films, usually with "exotic" themes, which were notable for being filmed in Technicolor. Montez was the object of Smith's admiration for a number of reasons. One of the chief reasons, as far as I can understand it, is that he found a level of truth and authenticity that emanated from her despite, or perhaps because, of her legendary "bad" acting. Smith also appreciated Montez for her magic, her beauty, her mystery. He writes in his essay, "The Perfect Film Appositeness of Maria Montez: "Wretch actress - pathetic as actress, why insist upon her being an actress - why limit her? Don't slander her beautiful womanliness that took joy in her own beauty and all beauty - or whatever in her that turned plaster cornball sets to beauty. Her eye saw not just beauty but incredible, delirious, drug-like hallucinatory beauty...To admit of Maria Montez validities would be to turn on to moldiness, Glamorous Rapture, schizophrenic delight, hopeless naivete, and glittering technicolored trash!

It would seem that viewing Montez's films is largely responsible for feeding Smith's brand of Orientalism. As he writes in his Montez essay, "You may not approve of the Orient but it's half of the world and it's where spaghetti came from." (You may think he's crazy, but pasta was introduced to Italy when the Arabs conquered Sicily, by the 9th century.)

Check out these stills from Maria Montez's 1944 film, Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves (which I have just seen for the first time). Montez plays the character of Amara, the daughter of Prince Cassim, who betrays the caliph, Hassan, and enables the Mongol invader Hulagu Khan to capture Baghdad. As a young girl, Amara pledged herself to Ali, the son of the caliph. Ali is presumed to have drowned shortly after his father was murdered due to Cassim's treachery, and when Amara grows up, she is promised to Hulagu by her father.

How glamorous she is. And steely eyed. The veil is not a sign of disempowerment here.

And gorgeous. Who cares if her acting is wooden?

Here is Amara with her servant, Jamiel, played by Turhan Bey. In some ways, Jamiel is the most audacious and brave of all the male characters in the film. Jamiel saves Ali Baba. He is sent on numerous dangerous missions. His talent with his knives is prodigious. It's Jamiel who hoists the flag of the victorious party of the caliph on top of the tallest tower at the end of the film. Turhan Bey, born in Austria to a Turkish diplomat and a Czech mother, appeared in a number of "exotic" roles in Hollywood during the fourties, often in the company of Maria Montez. It's quite interesting that he, the "exotic," the Arab, is in no way depicted in this film as deviant or fanatical or venal or corrupt or decadent...His "positive" role flies in the face of conventional critiques of "Orientalist" cinema. (How interesting, too, that this Hollywood film stars a Dominican and a Turk.)

Montez's costume, meant to represent thirteenth-century Baghdad, would not have been out of place at a Hollywood party at the time. It in no way marks her as "Other." Here, for instance, is a photo of Greta Garbo, from roughly the same time period. And check out the ravishing, be-turban'd Lana Turner, in a scene from The Postman Always Rings Twice.

Here is Amara (Montez) with Ali Baba (John Hall). When the two meet again as adults they do not recognize each other. Ali believes that Amara betrayed him to Hulagu, when he is captured, but eventually they reconcile. John Hall's acting is as sub-par as Montez's, but he is much less charismatic as a person. Here, even with her face-covering, Montez, as usual, manages to look styling.


Another shot of Amara talking to Jamiel. Another stylish outfit for Montez.


I love this shot of Amara (Montez), her father Prince Cassim (Frank Puglia) in the center, and the Mongol Hulagu Khan, on the right. The colors in this scene are simply spectacular. Too bad I can't quite capture their full impact with my camera. You will have to watch the film.

And a final shot of the fabulous Maria Montez as Amara.


The film ends when Ali's men defeat those of Hulagu, take over Baghdad, and restore the caliphate. The last item is that Hulagu's flag must be taken down and the flag of the Abbasid caliphate put up in its place. It's Jamiel (as noted above) who accomplishes this. When the flag goes up and begins to fly, everyone cheers, and that's the end of the film.

The curious thing is that the flag shown is not that of the Abbasids. The Abbasid flag was pure black, not green, and it had no crescent and no "allahu akbar" written on it . The flag flown in the movie resembles the Saudi flag, which, however, has a sword on it rather than a crescent.

More curious, isn't it, that the characters in the film, with whom we have come to identify, cheer at the sight of a film inscribed with "allahu akbar," as they defeat the Mongol oppressors and usurpers? What kind of "Orientalism" is this, when we are urged to align ourselves with such a moment, with such a scene?

Overall, Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves is "Orientalist" in that it depicts the Arabs of the medieval as exotic. At the same time, the protagonists (Ali Baba and his men) are presented as romantic characters with whom we can identify, not as ontological Others. And yes, we see scenes of women in the harems, in "belly dance" costumes. But they are not presented as women who need to be liberated, and the Amara (Montez) character in particular is depicted as anything but coy and repressed.

I think Smith drew something additional from this film besides the inspiration provided by Montez, an interest in vivid Technicolors (which was reflected in his photography), and the images of the harem (which inform both Flaming Creatures and Normal Love). There is also gender play.

When the boy Ali escapes from Hulagu and his men, he comes upon a band of thieves, discovers the secret of their hiding place, and so says "Open sesame" and makes his way into their cave The thieves, led by Old Baba, return and find the boy. Abdallah, Old Baba's lieutenant, raises objections to his presence. Ali holds his own in a fight against Abdallah. Old Baba, impressed by Ali's courage, accepts him into the gang, adopts him as his son, and appoints the tough guy Abdallah as Ali's "nanny." When Old Baba dies, Ali Baba takes over leadership of the gang, but keeps 'Abdallah as his lieutenant. At the same time, it continues to be necessary for Abdallah to look after and protect Ali, thus reconfirming his position as both a tough guy and a "nanny."

Interestingly, 'Abdallah is played by the famous Hollywood character actor Andy Devine, who was notable for his wheezy voice and for playing the role of the side-kick who was usually reluctant to get involved in any violent action. Given that he had firmly established himself in such roles during the thirties, prior to the filming of Ali Baba, it must have been difficult for Jack Smith, as it is for us, not to think of Devine's well-established persona as he watched the film. That is, it's hard to take the Abdallah character entirely seriously as a daring and frightening thief, given that he is played by Andy Devine.

The scene where Ali and his men dressing up in disguise in order to enter Baghdad so that they can rescue Amara from the clutches of Hulagu, Abdallah tries on this costume, the dress of an aristocratic woman of Baghdad. After Ali tells Abdallah, good-naturedly, that the outfit looks ridiculous, chiefly because of his beard, 'Abdallah opts for another costume.


Is this one of the sources of Frank Smith's distinctive brand of drag in Flaming Creatures and other films, where men dress up in female costume and makeup, but many retain their facial hair?

Francis Francine (Frank di Giovanni) wears a similar tall hat in the opening scenes of Flaming Creatures. You can't see the full height of Francis' hat in this shot, but you will get the idea if/when you watch the film. (Francis Francine later became, like other Jack Smith regulars, a Warhol superstar, and appeared as the transvestite sheriff in Andy Warhol & Paul Morissey's 1968 film, Lonesome Cowboys.)

When Ali's his men penetrate Baghdad in disguise, in preparation for Ali Baba's entrance and the eventual assault on the Mongolian usurper Hulagu, they spread the word among the denizens of Baghdad, alerting them to be prepared to assist him once the attack is launched. In one scene, 'Abdullah (Andy Devine) is shown in disguise, telling the Baghdadis around him, "Today, Ali Baba comes...Today, Ali Baba comes, today," as the movie's stirring, Eastern-inflected orchestral score plays.

You will recall that this is the bit of the soundtrack from Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves that opens Jack Smith's film, Flaming Creatures. (Yes, it is the words of...Andy Devine as Abdullah that open this groundbreaking underground film.) But what we see onscreen in Flaming Creatures is not Ali Baba and his men but some of Smith's fabulous creatures.

As Moon observes, Flaming Creatures was, in a sense, a kind of "Scheherazade party," referring to Diaghilev's revolutionary 1910 Ballet Russes production of Scheherazade, starring Nijinsky and Ida Rubenstein, featuring choreography from Fokine and set design and costume from Bakst. (Recall that we hear Rimsky-Korsakov's Scheherazade throughout Normal Love.) As Peter Wollen shows in his essential article "Fashion/Orientalism/The Body" (New Formations 1, 1987), the Orientalism displayed in Diaghilev's Scheherazade part was a much wider phenomenon, one that had an enormous impact on both high art and popular culture during this period. It all started, I'm fairly certain, with the appearance of Arab dancers (mythologized as the character of Little Egypt) at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. By the first decade of the twentieth century, it was common practice for the more fashionable and sophisticated of the urban middle classes (and especially the women) to dress up in "Oriental" costume for evening soirées. (I write just a bit about this phenomenon in an earlier post; there are some good images there as well.) Moon shows how Smith subversively taps into the (ambiguous) queer tendencies of this trend.

Here's a characteristic still from Flaming Creatures, from the infamous "orgy" scene, which invokes the indolence and decadence of the Orientalist "harem" (gauzy dress, African slave/eunuch with an "Arab headdress," and so on). Except that, with all the extravagant disguises and the cross-dressing and the mingling and entangling of bodies in ways that are often difficult to apprehend and the casualness of the bodily exposure and the touching of sexual organs, one must agree with Moon (42) that erotic charges in a work like Flaming Creatures do not follow hard-wired gender lines, but move powerfully across circuits of gender and sexual identity in not altogether predictable fashions." The scenario is utterly queer, in the most subversive sense, scrambling notions of gay, lesbian, bisexual, transvestite and hetero identities in ways that remain deeply provocative today.
I refer you to Moon and Johnson for much more thorough readings of Smith and Montez and Orientalism.

I want to conclude with a brief expression of dissent from what has by now become a convention of critical readings of Orientalist manifestations in Western culture. Starting from Said, the assumption of such critics is that the deployment of Oriental imagery is always oppressive and colonialist in its foundations and in its uses, always mobilized from a position of "flexible positional superiority," to use Said's phrase (Orientalism, p. 7). Orientalist "stereotypes" seem inevitably, in such uses, to have negative impacts upon actual Middle Easterners. No "fantasy" that deploys them would, it seems, be ethically possible.

An investigation of Smith and his sources, I think, opens up different possibilities. In a certain sense, Smith's mobilization of Orientalist imagery is so far removed from a "real" Arab world, given the layers of fantasy and the distance in time, as to be difficult to read in any easy way as having any implications for contemporary US politics regarding the Middle East.

But if we do want to think along those lines, are Smith's uses of the Arabic music of Bekkar in Normal Love "negative" in their implications? And what about his devotion to the films of Maria Montez? What about the fact that the viewer of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves is urged to sympathize with the Arabs in their struggle against the Mongols? Are the women of these films presented as Other, in need of liberation (by us)? As objects of colonialist scopophilia and voyeurism? Perhaps not, given that Maria Montez does not play helpless characters in need of liberation or depict women who passively accept the gaze. In addition, her outfits are not, usually, entirely foreign and exotic and symptoms of the oppression and seclusion of Arab women.

And what about the fact that the Orientalist imagery was absolutely essential to what Smith considered the "baroque" character of his art (he describes it as such in the documentary) and that he deployed it in such fundamentally subversive ways?

I am generally in sympathy with the Orientalist critiques. But I think they are often fundamentally limited in their vision, and I am starting to get bored with them. I am more interested in exploring the ways in which the "East" contaminates the "West" and how it messes with its supposedly essential and superior character. Thus my interest in Jack Smith and kufiyas and "Islamic" rap and punk and the writings of Peter Lamborn Wilson.

To be continued.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Back on the tarbush/fez tip: Shafiq Husayn (plus Edward Said and a kufiya)

Thanks to Omar for turning me on to the video of Shafiq Husayn's "The U.N. Plan," from his album Shafiq En A-Freek-A.


I've mostly paid attention to the video and the general sound, so I'm turning to this account of the lyrics, courtesy The Quietus.

'The U.N. Plan' is about being stuck in a rut, "living in circles". A tight, delicious groove and surging drums accompany vocals about remembering to be a star. They duel with reflections in reverb, saying things like "her name was boo and she left me all alone to expand", as if a consciousness were struggling to put positive light on a situation.

As for the video, there are a number of intriguing elements. Shafiq appears in it in five guises: as a kind of Lonnie Liston Smith in red turban and camo fatigues; as a kind of Rasta-ish boho wearing a knit hat with Ethiopian colors; a somewhat similar look to the former, but with a red hat (you can see this guise in the frame of the embedded video above); in dark glasses and red beret; and finally, and most remarkably, as an old-school Afrocentric intellectual, complete with Malcolm-style glasses and a fez (tarbush).


The provenance of Shafiq's very intello look here is given in an earlier frame, with the titles for the video, when we see this title page, from a text by the Moorish Science Temple, founded by Noble Drew Ali. The fez was part of the outfit worn by adherents of Moorish Science. And in fact, in the photo above, not only does Shafiq recall Malcolm X, but also Noble Drew Ali (see the photo from this previous fez post.)


With these images Shafiq is conjuring with the racialist theories of Moorish Science, which proposes that African-Americans are of Moorish origin. But he also conjures up the image of post-Mecca Malcolm, who abandoned the racialist doctrines of Elijah Muhammad and advocated progressive alliances with peoples of all races. The gentleman sitting at the table with Shafiq-in-fez could be Arab or Hispanic or South Asian. The video also shows images of the Buddha and a text about Tibet.

And then the Shafiq-in-beret is shown with a woman wearing what may be an Islamic headscarf (worn pretty loosely). In one scene the two of them are shown in front of a mural that depicts a woman in red kufiya, who appears to be depicted with "African" features. (The woman also appears with Shafiq-in-red-hat.)


We see a shot of another page of a book toward the end of the video, another text that the Shafiq-in-fez is presumably reading.


Look closely, and you will see that it is the top of page 175 of Edward Said's Orientalism, from Chapter Two, "Orientalist Structures and Restructures." The passage is about Chateaubriand's visit to Egypt.

How cool is that, Edward Said in a music video? Of course, it would be a video from an artist who belongs to the afro-futurist ensemble Sa-Ra Creative Partners, a group that evokes the name, sensibilities, and mythologies of Sun Ra and his Arkestra. A group responsible for production on Erykah Badu's incredible New Amerykah: Part One.

There is no doubt more to say about how expansive and complex is Shafiq Husayn's "U.N. Plan," but I'll leave it there for now.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Sex and the City 2: Abu Dhabi Decadence

Check out this preview.



I think this is a must-see. The fact that four sexy women from Manhattan take a vacation to Abu Dhabi for decadence represents some kind of change, no?! Or does the film represent a return to 19th century Orientalist ideas about the Arab East as the height of decadence?

But...Abu Dhabi??? In fact, it's Dubai that is the "decadent" place in the UAE. Among other sources, please check out Waleed Hazbun's invaluable Beaches, Ruins, Resorts: The Politics of Tourism in the Arab World. I reviewed it a few months back, read it here.

Here's my summary of some of Hazbun's main conclusions regarding Dubai:

Dubai is the most spectacular post-9/11 winner, a city whose image is tied up with tourism like an upscale Las Vegas. It attracts a diverse clientele, with British visitors first on the list. In the past few years, Dubai has had immense publicity success with high-profile projects, such as indoor skiing facilities, the iconic Burj Hotel, and plans to open branches of the Louvre and the Guggenheim museums designed by top-drawer architects, all receiving overwhelmingly favorable coverage in the Western media. Commentators like Thomas Friedman have come to regard Dubai, with its reputation as a “cosmopolitan oasis,” as a model for Middle Eastern globalization, through economic liberalization, “dynamic free trade zones,” and “sound economic management” (p. 213). It is as if the specter of Islamic terrorism has helped transform the negative stereotype of the “rich Arab oilman” into a positive one. Yet Hazbun reveals that Dubai's fabled cosmopolitan spaces are anything but open. Instead, they are rigidly controlled, carefully segregating Dubai's workers (mostly migrants from South and Southeast Asia) from the contained spaces reserved for tourists. Moreover, the state has successfully purchased its citizens' acquiescence by extending almost free housing, due to its near total control over urban development and land rights.

Dubai has emerged as the most successful tourism model in the Middle East, a kind of enclave where tourists are insulated, where security for visitors--a priority since 9/11--is highly visible, and where the potential negative social and cultural impacts of tourism are mitigated. Since the book was published, the Dubai economy has collapsed, though the tourism model remains an eminently viable one, as recent reports of the revival of Beirut's nightlife niche tourism (now depicted as gay-friendly) suggest.


So, for "Abu Dhabi," I read "Dubai." It will be interesting to see to what extent the film conforms to the updated image of Dubai, that Dubai has been so successfully spinning, and to what extent it resorts to Orientalist tropes.

Perhaps it's some sort of clever mix? I mean, check out this wild "hijab" worn by Samantha!


Samantha seems to be simulating Middle Eastern "modesty" but in a super-chic (but at the same time wacky) way, while Carrie manages to cover her hair but not her ample bosom. (Sorry, the image just seemed to automatically call forth Victorian language.)

And possibly another reason to see the film is the fact that my Merip comrade, Moustafa Bayoumi, appears as an extra. Read his account for the New York Times here. As he remarks, "It could have been worse. I could have been a Middle Eastern extra on '24.'”

Sunday, January 03, 2010

misc. #2010.z

Hipsters. Orientalism. Qaddafi. Yusuf Islam. Rififi. Taqwacore. The Japanese Red Army. Any interest? Read on...

Random stuff I've been gathering for awhile. I meant to do longer posts on some of this material, but the time has passed for that. Time to get all this off my desktop. Here goes.

1. Bashing the hipsters. According to Ben Sisario, this is the place. Hipster Runoff. Only two kufiya posts, here, and here, that don't really add much to kufiya snarkiness. But if you are in search of snide, irreverent and often witty hipster satire, it's all here.

2. Popular Orientalism. Last February the New York Times published an article, in the Antiques section, about Goldsheider ceramics, very popular among the US middle class. Especially popular were the Art Deco figures of the 20s and 30s, including those featuring "harem dancers." What caught my eye was the photo of a figurine called "Aida," which the online version did not reproduce. Now I've found an image (at left). The one I saw on ebay was selling for $4000. An earlier post on the popularity of harem and belly-dance dress among the US bohemian bourgeoisie is here.

3. Gaza and pop culture. Last January, Yusuf Islam (ex-Cat Stevens) released "The Day the World Gets Round." Proceeds from the sale of the single go to UNRWA and Save the Children, for their work with children in Gaza. It's a cover a George Harrison song, and recorded with bassist Klaus Voorman, who used to play with the Beatles. I'm not a big Islam/Stevens fan, but I like this one.



4. Qaddafi, the Opera. Almost too odd to be true. News from September 2006, but still worth recording. Put on by the English National Opera in London, and called "Gaddafi: A Living Myth," it was ostensibly meant to attract younger audiences. To that end, Asian Dub Foundation was commissioned to dub the score. If we can credit The Guardian, it didn't work too well. I'm a huge fan of Asian Dub Foundation, but I can't figure out why they were involved in this project. But you can watch a clip about it here.

5. Rififi: a footnote. I had heard of this film but never seen it until last night. The name intrigued me, however, because it seemed to be some kind of riff on the Moroccan Rif. Of course this is the film that blacklisted US director Jules Dassin famously shot in Paris, was a huge hit in 1954, and reestablished his reputation (and income).

It is based on a novel by Auguste le Breton called Du Rififi Chez les Hommes, which was given to Dassin to film. He hated the novel but took the job because he needed it. In particular, he hated it because of its racism. The bad guys were all North African, and Dassin said, when interviewed later, "The truth is the book shocked me: it was all about Arab bad behavior, including necrophilia." So Dassin made the bad guys French, and focused the film in particular on the robbery caper.

The title of the film only comes up in the theme song, "Rififi," sung in the cabaret by Viviane (played by Magali Noël), but even then, you can't really make sense of what it means other than that it seems to be gangster argot. (Watch the sequence here.)

Dassin explained the meaning in a 2000 interview: "The title comes from the North African tribe, the Rifs, who were in constant conflict...So it's all about melees and conflicts and fighting, out of which the novelist Auguste Le Breton made the word 'rififi.'"

There's a history of US citizens being sympathetic to Riffians, going back to Abdelkrim's celebrated revolt against the Spanish colonialists in Morocco (1920-1926). But that's another tale.

6. The Kominas/Taqwacore. Since they toured, they've been getting lots of media attention. The Taqwacore movie (see below) has helped garner media attention too. Here's a nice AP report. My favorite line is this: "Usami said a reporter once questioned him on how he felt about some Muslims being terrorists. He responded by asking her how she, as a white person, felt about the African slave trade."

Here's another from Sapna. "[T]he band is not supportive of 1947, the partition of Pakistan. It is always much more important to be desi than Pakistani, Bengali, Indian. Having a south Asian identity is much more important than being from a region."

The film, Taqwacore: The Birth of Punk Islam, will be screening at this year's Sundance Film Festival! Check out the film website.

Other good reports have been done, I've been trying to keep track, but right now, I can't locate the archive...Later, inshallah.

7. Japanese Red Army & PFLP on film. The invaluable magazine of Middle East art and culture, Bidoun, has partnered with the avante-garde art website Ubuweb to put up some fascinating sound and film documents. I've only just begun to explore.

Check out this one: Sekigun-PFLP: Sekai Senso Sengen (The Red Army/PFLP: Declaration of World War), 1971.

In 1971, Koji Wakamatsu and Masao Adachi, both having ties to the Japanese Red Army, stopped in Palestine on their way home from the Cannes festival. There they caught up with notorious JRA ex-pats Fusako Shigenobu and Mieko Toyama in training camps to create a newsreel-style agit-prop film based off of the "landscape theory" (fûkeiron) that Adachi and Wakamatsu had developed. The theory, most evident at work in A.K.A. Serial Killer (1969), aimed to move the emphasis of film from situations to landscapes as expression of political and economical power relations.

In 1974 Adachi left Japan and committed himself to the Palestinian Revolution and linked up with the Japan Red Army. His activities thereafter were not revealed until he was arrested and imprisoned in 1997 in Lebanon. In 2001 Adachi was extradited to Japan, and after two years of imprisonment, he was released and subsequently published Cinema/Revolution [Eiga/Kakumei], an auto-biographical account of his life.

Yes, really, "newsreel-style agit-prop." Fascinating. (The photo is from the film, of one of the four jets the PFLP hijacked in September 1970.) Of course, if you are sympathetic to the Palestinian cause, like I am, the connections that groups like the PFLP made with the Japanese Red Army as well as Germany's Red Army Faction are, to say the least, the source of embarrassment. (I'll have more to say about the RAF in future.)

There is also a short Agnès Varda film here, Plaisir d'amour en Iran, which I hope to look at soon.

And speaking of popular Orientalism--or maybe, rather, avant-garde Orientalism--there are also some Jack Smith films on Ubuweb, including Flaming Creatures, Normal Love and Scotch Tape. Normal Love is quite as amazing as Flaming Creatures, and I hope to have something to say about it in future.